So, when the opportunity to present training workshops at our India Development Center in Delhi for a week of in-person engagement, I said yes. And then the planning began.

Not just putting the finishing touches on five different workshops, but planning how to maximise the weekend I would have upon arrival. After 24+ hours of travel and a 12.5 hour time change, I wasn’t sure I’d be 100% up to the task but I couldn’t pass up the opportunity.

Travelling with a colleague who has made this trip before, I felt well-prepared to take on everything it had to offer. After glitch-free transfer through Doha, we arrived in Delhi around 1am on Saturday (we left on home on Thursday), cleared immigration (no line!), and successfully found our bags and driver.  Even in the middle of the night the drive from the airport to the hotel was bonkers. Through this part of the city, trucks can only transit at night, so the roadways were crowded with all things commerce in addition to the hustle of a city that doesn’t sleep.

Welcome to Delhi.

After a few refreshing hours of sleep and a much-needed shower, we reconvened Saturday around 10:30 AM, ready to seize the day. We savored the final delights of the breakfast buffet before setting out with our guide and driver to uncover the vibrant wonders of Delhi.

Our journey began in the bustling heart of Chandni Chowk, where we explored Jama Masjid, one of India’s largest and most stunning mosques. Built by the Mughal emperor Shah Jahan between 1644 and 1656, the mosque was alive with visitors, creating a lively atmosphere that was perfect for easing into the day.

Continuing deeper into the bustling, narrow streets of Old Delhi, the chaos enveloped us. Riding in a rickshaw, we were swept into a sensory feast of mid-day commerce—the air thick with the aromas of street food mingling with the fresh scents of ripe fruits and vegetables. Each doorway we passed revealed a treasure trove of merchandise, bursting with a kaleidoscope of colors. Vendors energetically hawked their wares from wooden carts and storefronts, while scooters and motorcycles zigzagged through the throng, honking and shouting. It was electric, a reminder of the city’s relentless energy and complex culture.

Weaving our way through wedding market, sari market, and silver market we arrived at our next destination: Khari Baoli – Asia’s largest wholesale spice market.

Stepping into the market, a hub of commerce since the 17th century, we were immediately immersed in its lively atmosphere on a hot, clammy Saturday afternoon. Shoppers bustled around us, filling their bags with an abundance of dried fruits and nuts—traditional gifts for the upcoming Diwali holiday. The air was rich with the scents of spices and sweet treats, creating an irresistible backdrop to our adventure.

The morning deliveries had been made and as a Saturday, many of the wholesale stalls were closed. I can’t imagine what it must look like on a trading day. We made our way to A. Kumar Trading, a charming spice and tea shop that has been a beloved fixture in the market since 1917. Here, the rich history of flavors comes alive, inviting us to explore the depths of India’s culinary heritage. The proprietor inquired about tastes and preferences, and suggested several teas and a small selection of spices that would allow us to pack the best of the market home with us.

Crossing the river, we arrived at the breathtaking Swaminarayan Akshardham, a Hindu temple and spiritual complex that captivates with its intricate beauty. The central sanctum, known as the Garbhagruh, is adorned with exquisite marble, shimmering gemstones, and stunning gilded statues, crafted by over 7,000 artisans!

An avid viewer of street art, I’d asked our guide to include Lodhi Colony on our itinerary. It is a vibrant neighborhood renowned for its stunning street art and murals. This area has transformed into an open-air gallery, showcasing the work of both Indian and international artists. The initiative began in 2015, when the Delhi Urban Art Commission collaborated with various artists to revitalize the space and promote public art.

Another seemingly random stop down a quiet side street, our guide led us through a small stone archway to reveal Agrasen ki Baoli, a stepwell, discovered during a building project. The architecture places it in the 14th century though that may be just the most recent refurbishment!

One of the highlights of our customized itinerary was a textile shopping experience. Our knowledgeable guide, whose wife is a talented seamstress, led us through a treasure trove of beautiful fabrics, shawls, and ready-to-wear pieces in local styles. We marveled at luxurious bolts of pure silk, intricate silk blends, and stunning metallic brocades. In adjacent rooms, we were surrounded by a dazzling array of pashminas and silk wraps, ranging from soft, natural hues to bold, shimmering metallics. The challenge is finding that perfect balance of local flair that will still hold its enchantment when taken home and designed into something that fits my personal style.

Our final destination of the day was the majestic Qutb Minar, a UNESCO World Heritage site that stands tall in South Delhi. Above us, the evening sky was alive with vibrant bursts of fireworks, celebrating Dussehra—a Hindu festival symbolizing the triumph of good over evil. The combination of the historic monument and the festive lights created a magical backdrop. Visiting here at sunset was the perfect end to a very busy day.

SIDE NOTE: the driving here is bonkers! Lanes are more of a suggestion than a rule, as cars, buses, trucks, tuk-tuks, and an array of motorbikes jostle for space in a colorful cacophony. Traffic lights? Just another gentle nudge to keep moving! Honking is practically a national sport, and amid this chaos, locals skillfully navigate the streets on foot, balancing their day’s shopping with remarkable poise. And let’s not forget the cows—yes, you’ll find them meandering through the city streets, adding to the surreal scene. Somehow, our driver always managed to appear exactly where we needed him, just when we arrived—truly a mystery of urban magic!

Why would anyone leave the comfort of a five-star hotel at 2:30 AM and embark on a 3.5-hour drive?

To witness the breathtaking beauty of the Taj Mahal at sunrise, of course.

As we arrived, the iconic white marble façade was shimmering in the soft morning light, creating a mesmerizing spectacle. For a moment, it felt as though the Taj Mahal was floating on a bed of mist.  The white marble reflects the changing color of the sun, transitioning from early morning’s golden glow to soft white during our visit.

Arriving at just after 6am, it was already busy with visitors. Once through the main gate, there was more space to pause and take in the grandeur of it all.

The Taj Mahal features four minarets, which are tall, slender towers situated at each corner of the main structure. These minarets serve both a functional and decorative purpose, enhancing the monument’s symmetry. The site is bordered by the river on one side. The inner chamber is adorned with beautiful inlay work made from semi-precious stones, featuring floral motifs and intricate calligraphy.

There is also a large mosque made of red sandstone that sits to the west of the Taj Mahal.

Not far from the majestic Taj Mahal lies Agra Fort, an imposing testament to Mughal architecture completed in 1573. Once the main residence of the Mughal dynasty until the late 1680s, this impressive fortress blends history with military significance. Inside its fortified red sandstone walls lie beautifully ornate rooms and intricate interior designs that hint of the grandeur of the Mughal Empire.

While I wrapped up the first workshop of the week , my colleague was busily researching our evening meal: butter chicken and garlic naan. Baba’s Chicken was a mere 3 “blocks” from our hotel but once standing on the corner of the first “intersection” we would need to cross, it quickly became obvious that we would not be getting there on foot. Even by car we had to take a circuitous route thanks to one-way traffic patterns!

But to the food: butter chicken, or Murgh Makhani, is a classic northern Indian dish made of grilled chicken in a tomato curry. Like most classic dishes, every cook has their own flair, and this one was no exception.  We were delighted to tuck into its warm, mild flavors, paired with palak paneer and naan. The naan was very thin and crisp, more like a warm cracker than doughy bread.

My love of pizza is well known, so when pizza was suggested for Tuesday’s night’s dinner I was all in. Da Susy is owned and operated by an Italian woman and serves up classic Neapolitan pizza. Listed on ‘50 Top Pizza Asia-Pacific 2023′, the small location in CrossPoint mall was still quiet when we sat down for dinner.  We paired the pizza with a fresh green salad and it was delicious. Pleepleus approved.

There was an iteresting selection of snacks at the office.  The “choose your own adventure” of snacking reminded me of working in Osaka and visiting the on-site mini-market with colleagues, picking up whatever seemed intriguing to keep us entertained through the afternoon. Not pictured here was the caramel corn which I’d already sampled. I may have also stashed a few bags of it for the flight home!

Behold The Orchard, the stunning indoor tropical garden that serves as the heart of Hamad International Airport in Doha. This lush oasis features vibrant greenery, cascading waterfalls, and a serene ambiance, making it a welcome escape for weary travelers.

Navigating the bureaucracy of the Delhi airport was pretty smooth when we arrived at midnight to start our trip home. We were able to take in some of the art installations in the terminal, as well as the massive lounge that occupies a mezzanine level.

Sunrise over the Persian Gulf as we passed through Doha, Qatar.