Fueled for the 4 km walk ahead, we headed for the Recoleta neighborhood. Along the way we saw a lot of the French-inspired, or in some cases actual French, architecture that give the city its European feel.

Cementerio de la Recoleta is 14 acres of above-ground burial vaults (4,600+ of them) dating back to the 1820’s. Ninety-four of the memorials are historically significant for Argentina, including Eva Perón. We didn’t go specifically to see it, and we didn’t stumble upon it in our wanderings. On our way out we consulted the vault map, found it was only a few rows from the exit so we doubled-back to see it. When in Buenos Aires ….

After the cemetery, we walked through the weekend market that lined the park’s perimeter. We’d been told that every Saturday and Sunday markets spring up around the local parks; while most are flea-marketesque, some have local artisans and antiques.

Earrings were purchased.

Next up, lunch. We decided to check out nearby Buller’s Brewery for some local brews and afternoon tapas.  As you know, Pleepleus has never met a pizza he didn’t like. Tiny Cow appreciated the lack of burgers. 🙂

On the hike back to the apartment we stopped in at El Ateneo Bookstore; it’s in the former Teatro Grand Splendid which opened in 1919. The still-intact theater boxes provide reading nooks for customers who come to shop, get coffee and take in the ornate setting.

A well-travelled crew, we traded stores over an excellent meal. One couple had recently returned from Mendoza so we got a few recommendations for our few days there later this trip.

Dan, our chef, doesn’t do a strictly Argentinian menu but rather mixes flavors of Agrentine and Peruvian cuisine with his personal style developed from years in the industry in New York City.

First up, Berenjena Troné (Eggplant Tonnato) – grilled eggplant, pickled tomatoes and a cream sauce. It was paired with Phillippe Caraguel Rosé Extra Brut from the Mendoza region. I’m not normally a fan of the bubbly, but the pairing was excellent!

Next up, Timbuche de Camerones y Mejilones (Shrimp & Mussel Timbuch).  Dan described the process of preparing the stock for this brothy fish soup and it was not fishy at all! I didn’t eat the actual fish, but the broth was fantastic. It was paired with Sophia “Alto Sur” Sauvignon Blanc from the Tupungato region of Mendoza.

Third up, Stradette en Puré de Zanahoria Asada (Stradette in Roasted Carrot Sauce). This little number was pasta made from polenta, then cooked in a roasted carrot sauce and served with a dollap of fig jam. Delicious. The wine paring was another unique one: Desert “Pampa Mía” Rosé Cabernet Franc 2016, Valle del Río Colorado, Mendoza. Rosé Cabernet Franc – who’s heard of such a thing?

Now for the entree: Muslo de Pollo al Chepén (Chicken Thigh Chepén Style). Slow-cooked chicken thighs in a spicy chili sauce served with red quinoa, kale and fresh peas. Crispy chicken skin on the side. The wine was a deep red, LaMadrid Single Vineyard Reserva Bonarda 2013, Luján de Cuya – again from Mendoza. Loved this preview of the Mendoza scene!

Finally, Cheesecake Don Pedro, a local twist on the classic dessert. Made with homemade cream cheese and a whiskey-laced dulce de leche sauce, it was a sweet end to a wonderful evening. Upping the sweet quotient, Putruele “Tardío de Abril” Chardonnay 2016, Valle de Tulum (Mendoza). Essentially an early-harvest wine, this was the sweetest chard I’ve ever tasted.

Pleepleus made an appearance for dessert, of course!

Terrific evening! The long walk back to our apartment was much faster at midnight (less foot traffic) and was a good way to prepare for bed.

We have more big plans for tomorrow!